Theth National Park, Albania

There are only two ways to get there – a hellish 16 mile (25km) hike up a steep and unkempt road or in the passenger seat of an off-road vehicle driven by a crazy local.

If you go for it, you will be rewarded with jaw dropping views of the majestic Albanian Alps, surrounding you on all sides like a cold blanket.

For mountain climbers, the unconquered rock faces are ripe for the picking…


Uncharted Territory

Albania’s recent history is checkered with communism, isolationism, totalitarianism, economic obscurity, banditry, black marketeering, and one crises after another, leading to it being the second poorest country in Europe. While it’s not good for the country, it’s great for you. Cheap, uncharted and thrilling, the Albanian Alps await you.

Credit: Rilind Hoxha

Accursed Mountains

In the northeastern reaches of Albania, near the Montenegro and Kosovo borders, lies Theth National Park, a shale basin which got its name from the tiny and isolated village in the middle of it. It’s nick-name however, is the “Accursed Mountains”, due to the hard life that the locals endure living among them; especially in winter where for seven months they are cut off from the rest of the world.

The beauty of those 8,200 feet (2,500 m) tall peaks, deep caves, waterfalls and canyons are unmistakable. In summer, the climbing, cragging, bouldering and scrambling is world-class, and there are enough walls to keep mountaineers busy for weeks.

Suitable for beginners and experts, Theth has easy climbs as well as endless opportunities for top-notch climbers looking to put their name in the history books.

Credit: nevermind this

Qaf Peje

A two to three-hour hike from the village will have climbers at Qaf Peje, a mountain pass that is the gateway to some of the best climbing in Albania. Dozens of peaks, including those in the massive Skhurts cluster, offer some first time ascent possibilities.

On the northwest side, Mt. Stogut (7,369ft/2,246m) with its sheer vertical towers beckons you to have a go, as does the equally sharp Mt. Reskulit (8,189ft/2,496m). On the eastern side, Maje e Bojes(8,074ft/2,461m) and Maja e Cokistes (7,860ft/2,396m) form a more technical climbing duo with astounding peaks to boot.

The Virgin Wall

Casting a shadow over it all is the colossal Mount Arapit, the Matterhorn of Albania. Standing at 7,273 feet (2217m), it is not the tallest peak in the region, yet with a 3,300 feet (1,000m) perpendicular face, it’s certainly the most imposing. It’s easily accessible and climbers have made it to the top, albeit never from the severe frontal approach. Today, this bad boy of the mountain world remains unconquered by man.

Are you up to the challenge?

Credit: Pål Nordseth

Other Activities

Stay in the village of Theth and enjoy the local hospitality. Visit the Lock-In-Tower, a vestige of Alabania’s brutal blood feud customs. Take a hike to Valbone to see the Grunas Waterfall and then go fishing on the Valbona river. There is camping, caving, hiking, biking and kayaking galore.

Just be forewarned – during your stay, Mt. Arapit will be watching, looming and enticing you to take her on. Will you be the first to conquer her?

I think no place where human beings live has given me such an impression of majestic isolation from all the world. -Edith Durham
When To Go

The best time to visit Theth National Park is between April and September.

Climate

Spring is pleasant with cool nights and warm days (59-68°F/15-20°C). Autumn has the same temps but you can expect some rain.

Summer can get very hot (over 86°F/30°C) but the mountains and forests stay cool.

Getting There & Around

Fly into Tirana Airport which is located 7 miles (11km) from the city center. In town, hire a driver to take you to Theth.

You can rent a car and do the drive yourself, it’s just 55 miles (90 km) away, just make sure you have a four wheel drive, the last 19 miles (30km) is dangerous dirt roads.

Average Costs

Mid-range accommodations: $10-40
Meals: $8-15
Beer: $1
Do’s

Hire a driver and guide with a 4-wheel truck.
Exercise caution. Having local connections via a guide or a property owner of a ‘bed & breakfast’ is recommended.
Full covered travel insurance is a must.
Don’ts

Come if you are not into adventure. Albania must be seen as one of the last true adventure spots left in continental Europe.
Forget, banditry and highway robbery are a well-known part of Albania highland history, with a local guide you can avoid this.
Expect to find places where you can rent your gear. You will need to bring your own into the country.
Fun Facts

Most Albanians (just over 70%) are atheists while 18% are Christians. The motto of Albania is ‘the faith of Albanians is Albanism’.