Sportmax Resort 2015

Review by Brittany Adams
It was the quintessential boy-meets-girl story at Sportmax's Resort presentation this morning. Maintaining a linear purity while simultaneously introducing elements of flou, the design studio added plissé details to sensible A-line dresses cut from bonded jersey, and also featured folds on the back of a slouchy suit. The emphases on soft pleating and nipped-in silhouettes felt like relatively unexplored territory for the Italian brand known for its smart tailoring and luxurious outerwear; they were welcome developments.

The best looks were the ones that achieved dynamic movement. A trapeze-shaped coatdress featuring allover pleats, for example, appeared to float with each step the model took, while a simple wrap top paired with its matching maxi skirt glided elegantly across the floor. The color palette was predominantly focused on inky blacks and blues, but the Sportmax team didn't shy away from bold hues and prints entirely. Unconstructed topcoats rendered in vibrant shades of mint green and persimmon double-faced wool were worn over relaxed trousers and refined T-shirts; a fuchsia-and-red combination seemed particularly fresh coming off of Fall's unexpected brights trend. Gary Hume's artwork inspired the graphic scribble and brushstroke patterns found on jacquard coats, breezy silk tunics, and slim pants. Compared with the messy abstractions of Jackson Pollock's paintings seen on Sportmax's most recent runway, these artsier pieces were more successful in their relative restraint.