Antonio Marras - Resort 2015

Review by Kristin Anderson
Antonio Marras' collections are often born of densely multilayered concepts, but for Resort 2015 he streamlined. At a presentation of his latest offering, the designer showed a Johnny Moncada photo of Veruschka on Sardinia's Costa Smeralda, cutting a svelte line against her scrubby, wild surroundings. It's a stark, strong image (not unlike the model herself; Marras was quick to note that she refused to cut her hair in an era when shorn tresses were de rigueur), but that's where the austerity ended here.

On offer were a riot of color and a fracas of richly embellished fabrics that sang—and at points screamed, albeit joyously. The palette took cues from the Sardinian landscape and sent them into overdrive; foliage became a brilliant emerald, the water a pale aqua, sunsets a powder pink and an electric fuchsia. Prints leaned toward pop florals. Particularly strong were a graphic rose jacquard fil coupe and Deco-y Lurex knits. Under the Laboratoria umbrella, where Marras' more couture proclivities run free, fuchsia lace topped brocade, and pink cloque was scattered with paillette details. The designer also debuted a capsule of coated denim pieces ("I love a challenge!" he remarked), embellished with macramé lace and chunky crystals.

If this all sounds like a lot…it was. But the saving grace: the silhouettes. Swingy mod-tinged shapes and easy fits did wonders to stave off a sense of heaviness, and the overall effect was flirty rather than fussy. Marras' second footwear collection, complete with pink pony-hair creepers, helped, too.