Mugler Resort 2015

Review by Katharine K. Zarrella
David Koma didn't look at Mugler's vast, 5,000-piece archive before designing his debut collection for the house. "I wanted to focus on the new Mugler woman," said Koma, who was appointed creative director in December, replacing Nicola Formichetti. Koma said the archive will be referenced for future collections—and just because he turned away from it this time around doesn't mean he doesn't respect the house codes. In fact, the designer began his career because of Thierry Mugler: After seeing a range of Mugler looks in his mother's fashion magazines as a child, Koma instantly decided that fashion was his calling.

For Resort, the Paris-based, Georgian-born talent infused his collection with the signatures we've seen in his eponymous line (strict, sleek tailoring, for example), but there were still notable nods to the Mugler of old, namely clear sequins scattered down a zip-skirt gown, snap closures, functional and decorative metal accents, and grosgrain straps that could transform a jacket with a boxy menswear silhouette into something fitted and feminine. That Mugler va-va-voom factor was there, too, oozing out of strapless, sculpted minidresses with zigzag grosgrain bodices, itty-bitty sheer crop tops in 3-D mesh, and a particularly sexy pencil skirt with bondage detailing down the side.

So anyone hoping for the exaggerated shoulders and theatrical wares Formichetti aimed to channel in his Mugler lineups (which received mixed reviews) was out of luck. That's because Koma aspires to give women a full wardrobe rather than just one or two statement pieces. "We wanted to have a fresh start, and to build a beautiful base that the modern woman can wear for every occasion, season after season," the designer explained. To wit, he covered all the necessary bases. For day there were easy knit pullovers, one of which had sheer black insets; flattering silk trousers in white or black; and a bevy of slick jackets (a stretch-leather iteration had a metal spine of sorts). Come cocktail hour, the Mugler femme can choose from fitted but conservative knit body cons, fluid jumpsuits, or paneled dress pants with a matching top. If she wants to hit the town, she can opt for a range of saucy frocks with thigh-high slits and slashes of contrasting bonded silk or grosgrain. A silk and mesh sweatshirt gown felt particularly fresh and could be worn for any occasion.

The palette will speak to a host of consumers, too: Black, white, gray, and blush garments were clean (but certainly not quiet—it's still Mugler, after all), and vibrant highlighter prints in cobalt, electric yellow, navy, and fire orange offered welcome pops of vibrancy. If there's any criticism to be made, it's that Koma could have used a lighter touch when it came to his recurring metal loop embellishments. But all in all, this was a strong first outing for the designer, who says an accessories range is not far off. And while the team couldn't reveal any confirmed retailers yet, it sounds like the big dogs are biting.